General Gaming Article

General Gaming Article


Vizio CA24T-A4 All-in-One PC Review

Posted: 22 May 2013 03:55 PM PDT

Bringing the sexy back—minus a few key components

Smart TVs are basically dumb PCs, so it shouldn't come as a surprise that Vizio—one of the world's most successful HDTV manufacturers—plans to grow by jumping into the all-in-one PC market. The Vizio CA24T-A4 is a surprisingly good rookie effort, but there is room for improvement.

The tiny keyboard delivers surprisingly good tactile feedback.

The tiny keyboard delivers surprisingly good tactile feedback.

The 24-inch, 10-point touchscreen display is crisp, clear, and very thin (about .75 inches). It's an MVA (multi-domain vertical alignment) model, with an LED backlight. Resolution is 1920x1080 pixels, which is typical of this class of machine (Vizio also offers higher-end models with 27-inch displays at the same resolution).

The display is mounted to a thin stalk rising from the pizza-box base that houses the machine's guts. The display can tilt from minus-5 degrees to plus-20 degrees, which is fine for using the PC from a seated position, but it doesn't tilt back far enough to use the machine while standing. Unlike the displays on the Asus ET2300 and Lenovo A720, it can't be folded flat. It also doesn't pivot or swivel left to right.

The CA24T-A4's base is incredibly small—at just 1-inch high, it's even thinner than the svelte Lenovo A720—but Vizio removed two important components to achieve that profile: The computer has neither a discrete GPU nor an optical drive. You won't mind integrated graphics unless you're a hardcore gamer, and the absence of an optical drive won't matter if you acquire your movies, music, games, and other software online. But Intel's dual-core 2.5GHz Core i5-3210M CPU and its HD4000 graphics is a 98-pound weakling when it comes to modern gaming with eye candy turned up, and we were grateful to have a USB DVD drive on hand to install some of our benchmarks. Gaming performance on the box could have been helped with higher-clocked RAM, but alas, Vizio went with DDR3/1333.

Vizio outfitted the CA24T-A4 with four USB 3.0 ports, two HDMI inputs (so you can connect both a satellite/cable set-top box and a gaming console or Blu-ray drive), and an eSATA port (which we'd happily trade for Thunderbolt for forward-looking compatibility). Everything except one USB port is in the back of the machine, so you won't have ugly cables sticking out of its side; and unlike many AiOs we've tested, Vizio doesn't hijack any of its USB ports to host a wireless dongle for keyboard and mouse. Actually, Vizio doesn't put a mouse in the box—it provides a wireless multitouch trackpad, instead. Vizio tells us that this is to take advantage of Windows 8 gestures, but we can't say we're enthused about it: Trackpads are necessary on laptops, but they don't deliver a lot of benefit paired with a desktop rig (unless you're using the PC from the couch, and that's an unlikely scenario with just a 24-inch display).

Vizio's all-in-one delivers much better sound than we've heard from most computers, thanks in part to the presence of a subwoofer cleverly integrated into the computer's detached power supply (Asus offers a sub for its all-in-ones, but at additional cost with most models). There's a volume control and an HDMI toggle switch conveniently integrated into both the keyboard and the remote control. That's a much better solution than integrating these features into the display, as Asus and Lenovo do. You can also use the HDMI display without needing to power up the computer (the keyboard controls don't function in this situation, but the remote does).

The Vizio CA24T-A4 delivered very weak benchmark numbers. If you care about performance, the similarly priced Asus E2300 crushes it, thanks to its higher base clock, larger cache, and dedicated GPU. But if you anticipate using the Vizio's HDMI display capabilities as much as its computing power, it's the better buy.

$1,250, www.vizio.com

Ask the Doctor

Posted: 22 May 2013 03:30 PM PDT

The doctor tackles Post-Upgrade Blues, Drive Order, Upgrading an XPS 700 , and more

Post-Upgrade Blues

I upgraded to Windows 8 on my laptop. Can you tell me how to reinstall Windows 7? I tried restoring the system from Windows 8 but did not have any luck. Is there a way to use my recovery discs or will I need to purchase a copy of Windows 7?

Michael De Matteis

The Doctor Responds:

If the recovery discs are the ones that came with your laptop, you should be able to use them to reinstall Windows 7 (provided that's what your laptop shipped with). Your product key should still be on the sticker on the bottom of your laptop. If not, you can download the Window 7 ISO that corresponds with your license here and use that to burn a new install disc. If that doesn't work, due to OEM licensing constraints, contact your laptop manufacturer; they may be able to get you (or sell you) a new recovery disc. Some laptops also have a recovery partition that you can boot into to reinstall Windows—when you boot, keep an eye out for any options to press keys to access a recovery feature.

Classic Shell restores the Start button and menu, and even gives you a choice whether to completely eliminate the Start screen or not, so you can ease into it.

Classic Shell restores the Start button and menu, and even gives you a choice whether to completely eliminate the Start screen or not, so you can ease into it.

If you want to downgrade because of program incompatibilities, go ahead and downgrade. But if you just miss the Start menu and hate the Metro interface, there's a way to keep the performance improvements of Windows 8 and get the classic Start menu back. Several ways, actually, but we like Start8 ($5) or Classic Shell (free). Install it and you can add a Start button back to your taskbar, and even disable Metro entirely. And later, when Metro gets more useful or you feel like experimenting, you can get Metro back without having to downgrade now and upgrade again later.

SSD Program Sorting

I recently upgraded my old computer with (among other things) an SSD. I don't want to fill it up with unnecessary stuff. I have installed Windows 7 and MS Office on it, but have directed downloads, documents, pictures, videos, etc. to default to a secondary hard drive. I'm wondering about programs. If they aren't frequently used, or maybe just a trial program, is it OK, performance-wise, to put a program on the HDD rather than on the SSD? Would this have any effect on the overall system performance?

Jack Orkin

The Doctor Responds:

In the future we will all have enough SSD space to install every program we want, but right now few of us can afford an SSD that big, so some programs invariably have to be installed on mechanical drives. This is perfectly fine. Putting your OS and your most frequently used programs on the SSD is the best way to take advantage of your SSD's access speeds, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with installing less frequently used or trial programs on the HDD. Your instinct is right on the money. They won't load as fast, of course, but who cares? If you wind up using them all the time, make room on the SSD. Otherwise, they're fine where they are.

Put the Jumper Down

A long time ago, there was an article in your magazine dealing with optimal communication/connection arrangements for hard drives and CD-ROMs via E-IDE primary masters/slaves and E-IDE secondary master/slaves.

I am building a new rig that has SATA components: two SATA HDDs and two DVD drives. They are plugged into the mobo SATA ports: 0 and 1 for the hard drives, 2 and 3 are empty, and ports 4 and 5 go to the DVD drives. Is there a better way to connect these components to reduce communication bottlenecks?

Sunnie

The Doctor Responds:

The good news, Sunnie, is that the day of having to manually jumper your hard drives and optical drives are long over (although the Doctor will note that cable select worked pretty well at the end).

SATA is point-to-point and does not feature a master and slave relationship like Parallel ATA had, so don't worry about that aspect. The only thing to really be mindful of when hooking up multiple SATA devices is which controller they go to. Modern boards usually have multiple SATA controller chips. Some go to the board's south bridge/peripheral controller hub, and others go to discrete controllers put on the board as a value add. Generally the chipset controller is preferred over discrete components. One other thing to consider is whether the port is SATA 6Gb/s. On AMD chipsets, all of the SATA ports are SATA 6Gb/s. On Intel, only two of the six from the chipset proper are SATA 6Gb/s. If you eventually buy an SSD that runs at SATA 6Gb/s you will get the best performance running it on a SATA 6Gb/s port. Since your hard drives and optical drives don't benefit from this (very much anyway), the Doctor recommends cracking open your motherboard manual and finding out which of the ports are SATA 6Gb/s. Plug your other drives into the SATA 3Gb/s ports and leave the 6Gb/s ports open for the day when you install an SSD.

Mobo Five for XPS 700

I have a Dell XPS 700 that I purchased in December 2006. I purchased it with a four-year warranty. During that time, the motherboard had to be replaced four times. I ended up buying a new Dell after the warranty period expired and the fifth motherboard failed.

dell

XPS 700: To fix or to toss? That is the question.

I would like to use the XPS 700 as my spare computer, but for that I need a new motherboard. I called Dell to see about a motherboard. They said they could order one for me, but they want $440 for it. I don't want to buy another motherboard from them knowing it'll fail after a year. I don't know enough about motherboards to buy one that's compatible with my computer but more reliable, and I don't know if $440 is too much.

Is there a replacement board for this machine I can swap out without being too much of a geek, or should I just bag it?

Clair Bolton

The Doctor Responds:

$440 is an awful lot to pay to replace a 6-year-old motherboard model. It's even a lot to pay for a brand-new top-of-the-line motherboard. They don't make motherboards using the nForce chipset any more, or even in that form factor (BTX) any more

For that amount of money you could nearly replace the entire XPS 700 with a faster computer—we've come a long way in six years. It's possible to get a modern ATX motherboard to work in that great-looking XPS 700 chassis, but it's rather more work than you'd probably like to do (See here). You'd still be stuck with an outdated system unless you replaced the CPU, RAM, and videocard, as well. In which case, as we mentioned, you'd probably just be better off with a new computer—unless you really love that XPS 700 case and own a Dremel that you don't mind using.

DDR with No Bloody 2 or 3

I have an old desktop that was given to me a few years ago. It features an Athlon 64 X2 4800+ in a Socket 939 ASRock 939 board with 2GB of DDR, two hard drives, a GeForce 8800 GTS, and 300W PSU. It was running an early build of Windows 7, and one day it would power on but not get through POST. I finally got it running earlier this year after essentially unseating every part in the case and reinstalling it. The last part I reinstalled was the RAM, which seemed to do the trick. I used the rig this entire year until my IDE DVD drive started to act up, and when I powered off my system and replaced it with another IDE drive it wouldn't get to POST or the screen where it shows the BIOS checking your RAM and HDDs. After a bit of work, I was able to get my graphics card to display an image, but it only shows the motherboard checking the RAM then freezing.

I personally think that my DIMMs may have gone bad, but after switching the configurations from 2GB (4x 512MB), to 1GB, and then to just one stick, I am beginning to believe it may be something else. I would just get more RAM, but seeing that I'm limited to using DDR (not DDR2, just plain DDR RAM) finding replacement parts has been hard. I cannot afford to build a new rig, which I would rather do than dealing with this crap. What should I do, and what exactly is my problem?

Wayne Strickland 

The Doctor Responds:

The Doc knows that it sounds like a broken record but the two most common failure points in an elderly system (other than HDD) are RAM and power supply. Since you don't have a spare bucket of parts, you should first try to diagnose with what you have. First, to ensure that your hard drive isn't going bad and hanging during POST, disconnect both hard drives' cables from the motherboard. It's unlikely to be the issue, but disconnect them just to be sure.

You have pulled RAM, but how do you know the last stick of RAM in the machine isn't the one that's bad? Swap the last stick of RAM with one of the other sticks and try them in different slots. Remember: Power down your system completely and switch off or unplug your PSU for at least 10 seconds before removing RAM or PCIe devices.

If that doesn't work, try resetting the BIOS. If that doesn't work, manually set the RAM timing in the BIOS to the timings supported by the RAM. With the box running, make sure the fan on the CPU is running and not blocked by cat hair, dust, or a mouse house.

If you're still stuck, the next step will probably take additional parts to troubleshoot. Frankly, the Doctor believes the problem may lie with your PSU. The GeForce 8800 GTS came in numerous configurations, with some consuming more power than others. All of them are probably just a wee bit over-the-top for a 300-watt PSU, especially if it's a no-name PSU. And even if it has worked fine for many years, a PSU running at 95 percent of peak through long hot summers is likely to have a shorter lifespan than one running at 50 percent its whole life. So, the PSU should be one of your first suspects to replace if you can swing it. Usually when power supplies give up the ghost, they just stop working, but that's not always the case. It's possible the PSU has enough juice to POST and get to the RAM check before it gets overloaded and shuts down.

Newegg Daily Deals

Posted: 22 May 2013 01:25 PM PDT

Samsung 840Newegg

Top Deal:

One of the biggest upgrades you can make to your PC is to install an SSD. Today's top deal, the Samsung 840 Series drive, is a massive 500GB one that's on sale for $320 (normally $370 - use coupon code: EMCXRVW23). The SSD ships free and comes with a three-year warranty. 

Other Deals:

Intel Core i7-3930K Sandy Bridge-E 3.2GHz Six-Core desktop processor for $540 with free shipping (normally $570 - use coupon code: EMCXRVW24)

Western Digital Black 2TB 7200 RPM hard drive for $140 with free shipping (normally $170 - use coupon code: EMCXRVW22)

ASUS white 23" LED 1920x1080 monitor for $160 with free shipping  (normally $200 - use coupon code: EMCXRVW57)

Rosewill 2.5" SSD mounting kit for 3.5" drive bay with 60mm fan for $5 with free shipping (normally $10)

ASRock's Specially Coated 8 Series Motherboards are Waterproof

Posted: 22 May 2013 12:58 PM PDT

ASRock 8 Series MotherboardDon't try this at home.

Before self-contained liquid cooling solutions (LCS) became mainstream, water cooling enthusiasts would march over to places like Danger Den (R.I.P.) and order custom parts, fit them together, and then pray to Poseidon that he'd have mercy against leaks. Back then, water cooling aficionados sure could have used a board like any of ASRock's new specially coated 8 Series mobos. Using a layer of "Comformal Coating," ASRock says its treated mobos aren't afraid to get wet, a trait the company hopes the professional overclocking crowd will embrace.

"The special layer of Conformal Coating makes ASRock's motherboards invulnerable to conductive liquids, so overclockers won't have to worry about accidentally spilling liquid nitrogen, liquid helium, or even clam chowder over their motherboards while they are overclocking," ASRock explains. "Along with conductive liquids, Conformal Coating also protects the motherboard against dust, corrosion and extreme temperatures. It is the ultimate armor for the upcoming 8 Series motherboards."

ASRock demonstrates the feature in a short YouTube video, which we've embedded below. Bear in mind that the water you see being poured over the motherboard was routed to avoid the pins, which ASRock says still carries the risk of short circuiting. That means you probably can't get away with sticking one of these boards on the bottom of your fish tank, but should an accidental spill occur, there's a good chance your system will survive, or at least the mobo.

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Futuremark Injects Battery Test Into Upcoming PCMark 8 Benchmark

Posted: 22 May 2013 12:01 PM PDT

Futuremark PCMark 8Popular benchmarking tool receives a significant update.

Looking for something new to test your hardware with? Hang tight for about another month and you'll be able to stress your components using Futuremark's upcoming PCMark 8 software. Futuremark received help from members of its Benchmark Development Program, which include Acer, AMD, Condusiv Technologies, Dell, HGST, HP, Intel, Microsoft, Nvidia, Samsung, SanDisk, Seagate, and Western Digital.

"We believe that this open process of close cooperation with industry experts is the only way to create accurate and impartial benchmarks that measure performance fairly. Having high-level access to the industry's leaders also ensures that our benchmarks are not only relevant for today's hardware, but remain relevant year after year," Futuremark said.

Like previous versions of the popular benchmark, PCMark 8 focus on tests that mimic real-world usage scenarios, such as browsing the web, photo editing, video chat, writing, and gaming. New to this edition, however, are additional benchmarks based on productivity and creativity applications from Adobe and Microsoft.

Also new is a "Battery Life" mode that loops a test until the battery is almost empty. Testing battery life is the one trickiest things to do since everyone uses their PCs differently, so we're pretty interested to see how PCMark 8's test does with it.

PCMark 8 is in the final stages of development and expected to launch by the end of next month.

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Store More Than Just Photos in Flickr's 1TB Bucket

Posted: 22 May 2013 09:38 AM PDT

Hard DriveAn end-around solution to storing common files in Flickr.

In the process of overhauling Flickr, Yahoo announced that photographers would be allowed to upload up to 1TB of photos and videos for free, the only restrictions being the size of each individual file (200MB for photos and 1GB for 1080p videos) and length of clips (up to 3 minutes long). Other than those caveats, it's a generous storage container that's big enough to hold half a million photos shot at 6.5 megapixels. But what if you could also upload common files? There's a way you can do that.

Thomas Claburn at InformationWeek discovered a piece of interesting Ruby code posted to Github called flickr-store. Developer Ryan LeFevre came up with the code, which lets users encode any file as a PNG so that arbitrary data can then be uploaded to Flickr.

"This is mostly proof of concept right now. Don't do anything beyond tinkering with it yet," LeFevre warns.

If it works as intended, then it's a pretty slick workaround that could come in handy for backing up certain files, though we wouldn't recommend using it to store critical data. The biggest reason is that it's not immediately clear whether such a method runs afoul of Flickr's terms of service.

"I'm sure they frown upon it, but they claim you cannot upload anything that interferes with the services and I don't believe this does," LeFevre told InformationWeek.

In other words, caveat emptor.

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Former HTC Employee Encourages Other Staff to "Just Quit" the Company

Posted: 22 May 2013 09:09 AM PDT

HTC QuitRough waters ahead for HTC.

My how the mighty have fallen. It seems hard to believe now, but HTC was once a top dog in mobile. Having led the Android revolution with the introduction of the HTC Dream (you may know it as the T-Mobile G1), HTC for a long while was reporting record revenues and profits. More recently, however, HTC's been struggling to remain relevant in a category (mobile) that's largely dominated by Apple and Samsung, and it's slumping sales bear that out. Equally troubling for HTC as it tries to right its ship is that its crew is turning against it and jumping overboard.

Eric Lin, former product strategy manager at HTC, took to Twitter to encourage other employees to quit, suggesting he's much happier after having done so himself.

"To all my friends still at HTC -- just quit. Leave now. It's tough to do, but you'll be so much happier, I swear," Lin tweeted earlier this week.

There are some funny comments that follow, including one that reads, "I like your subtlety; I almost didn't get that you were telling everyone at HTC to quit," but this is no laughing matter for HTC.

Lin isn't the only one to jump ship. So did former chief product officer Kouji Kodera, who HTC said left to "pursue other interests," along with several others from marketing and communications positions, AllThingsD reports. The timing of the departures stinks for HTC, which is trying to reverse course and focus its efforts on building and marketing a small number of killer devices rather than bombard consumers with dozens of different models.

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Fractal Design Node 304 Mini-ITX Case Now Available in White

Posted: 22 May 2013 07:39 AM PDT

Fractal Design Node 304

It's bigger on the inside

You would be hard pressed to list mini-ITX cases capable of accommodating up to six 3.5"/2.5" hard drives. We also can't think of too many, but we do know that Swedish company Fractal Design's Node 304 is definitely one such deceptively spacious case — the Tardis of PC cases, if you will.

The Node 304 has been on the market for quite a while now and, as some of you might recall, recently we even told you about a CyberPowerPC machine that uses it. But until now there was one big problem: it was only available in black. Thankfully,  Fractal Design has finally expanded the color options and the minimalist case is now also available in white.

The Node 304, which has an MSRP of $89.99, can hold a lot of other things besides all those hard drives. Here are some technical specs:

  • Mini ITX, DTX motherboard compatibility
  • Two expansion slots
  • Six 3.5" or 2.5" HDD / SSD
  • ATX PSUs, up to 160mm in length (To fit in combination with a long graphics card, PSUs with modular connectors on the back typically need to be shorter than 160 mm)
  • Graphics cards, up to 310mm in length, when 2 HDD brackets are removed (Graphics cards longer than 170 mm will conflict with PSUs longer than 160mm)
  • Tower CPU coolers, up to 165 mm tall
  • Includes three Silent Series R2 hydraulic bearing fans and a three-speed fan controller
  • Fan filter for graphics card
  • Two USB 3.0 ports on the front ( includes internal USB 3.0 to 2.0 adapter)
  • Case dimensions (W x H x D): 250 x 210 x 374 mm
  • Case volume: 19,5 Liters
  • Net weight: 10.8lb

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